Leather: Going Custom

I have a lot of leather gear that I have acquired over the past 25 years or so. Like any other biker, I began to buy leather to use while riding my motorcycle. I bought my first leather gear items (chaps, jacket, and vest) off-the-rack. That was in the days before the Internet. I got these first items from a local motorcycle shop. None of that gear fit me all that well, but I didn't know how to get a good fit, and the guys in the shop were not knowledgeable about fitting leather, either. The gear was sold in generic sizes of S-M-L-XL. That was that.

My first custom gear was a pair of chaps from "The Leathermaker" of Los Angeles, California. I saw an ad that he ran in a magazine and the chaps looked really hot. They had outside zippers and a custom fitted closure. I wrote (a letter) to him and received a measuring form back with some more really hot photos. I asked a friend to measure me, and I sent off my payment with the order form all filled out. About a month later, the chaps arrived. Man, I was in heaven! The fit was perfect, the look outstanding, and the style was unique.

This proved to me that going custom was what I needed to do. No more silly snaps on the bottom of the leg opening. No more zippers on the inside that would scratch the paint on my bike. No more adjustments like a belt buckle on the front closure.

After that, I had my first business trip to San Francisco. I built up the courage to go into a fetish leather store and after I found out that the guys in there were only interested in selling leather and not (doing anything else to me), I had them measure me and retain all of my measurements, even if this time I was only ordering a custom long-sleeved leather shirt. A few months later, I had them make me a pair of leather pants, since they had my measurements.

Man, I felt like I had arrived! I had my leather chaps, pants, and shirt, and felt more confident in myself as a person and no longer a leather novice. And I got noticed, too. Guys could tell that I had quality gear, so perhaps they thought that there might be a quality guy inside.

Though I wasn't really one to go out to bars (I just never was a late-night kinda guy), I met some really interesting guys for dates when I was out in full leather on my motorcycle. I had fun exploring leather and getting more gear through the years. In fact, walking with "the leather contingent" in the March on Washington in 1993 was when and where I met my partner. The rest is history -- never dated another guy. Nowadays, I still wear my custom gear when I ride my Harley; around and in the community during fall, winter, and spring -- just because I like how it feels and I'm way beyond caring what other people think; and when my partner and I have a little fun. It has a lot of uses!

One word if you are just starting out: custom gear isn't cheap, but because it will fit you right, you will be able to wear it for a long time. Consider it an investment. As such, if you are only going to wear leather once a year to a leather event, don't bother with it. The once-a-year-in-leather dudes have that "deer-in-the-headlights" look and it's obvious they are uncomfortable in it. In order to get a return on your investment, wear it often and proudly. I do.

Here is today's snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear.

Custom leathers are really the way to go. Not only will the leather fit you better, it looks better. You will not have unsightly snaps or zippers that are found on off-the-rack, cheaper leather goods, made to fit anyone of any size and height. Custom leather gear often is not much more expensive than off-the-rack, provided you are getting quality, top-grain leather. If you order the cheap stuff from the usual biker's leather retailers, it will be obvious and gives a signal that perhaps you don't want to give -- that you're cheap. Certain items like leather breeches or leather uniform shirts should always be custom made. Chaps should be custom, or at least altered to fit, else they will be baggy in the wrong places, too short, or too long.

Here's how to do measurements for custom gear. There is a form on my website to help you record what you need to know. At a minimum, have your waist, inseam, thighs, chest, neck, and length of arms measured. There are more measurements that may be needed, so check out that form!

Have someone else do the measurements. Never measure yourself, because you just can't get a tape correctly around yourself to get an accurate measurement, no matter how careful you think you can be.

Ensure the tape is pulled 'snugly'. Do not allow 'extra' in the measurements around the parts of your body, because inevitably the measurement will not be accurate. Also, leather stretches naturally, so if the leather is tight when you first get it, it will accommodate by stretching as it breaks in during regular wear. Do not assume that the size you wear for a pair of jeans is the same for a pair of leather jeans, or a shirt size is the same for a leather shirt. Generally those bluejeans or shirt sizes are not your actual measurements.

Tomorrow: where to buy custom gear. Remember now, life is short: wear your boots and leather!