Friday, August 8, 2008

Leather: Jackets

A leather jacket is something many men have, and is an essential item for a Leatherman. The jacket provides warmth and protection, and a good one just looks cool. Here's today's snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear:

It is likely that you already have a leather jacket. But just make sure you have a good one. There are several types of leather jackets that are acceptable as "fetish", but primarily these are jackets that are meant for motorcycle riders. Either true biker leathers or even racing leathers work well here. Also leather police jackets work fine.

Features to look for:

The fit: Now this part is quite important. Make sure the jacket fits you properly! You don't want a big bulky piece of leather - You wind up looking fat. If you can afford custom, go for it. Otherwise try on several different jackets until you find the one that fits you well. It is best if there are lacings at the bottom sides of the jacket so you can adjust the fit.

Style: Pick the right style, and you can wear it over and over again. A standard motorcycle jacket is best. Wide lapels, button down collar. Choose one with a belt that is not sewn onto the jacket. (It should be a good wide belt). Epaulets are your own personal choice. Avoid gaudy hardware.

Quality: look at the label to ensure it is made of "top grain" leather rather than cowhide splits. If it doesn't say "top grain," be suspicious. Also, be suspicious of leather jackets made in China, Pakistan, or India. The quality of leather from these countries just isn't there.

As a biker for more than 30 years, I have eight motorcycle jackets in my current Leather Gear Inventory, but have had others not shown that don't fit me any more. I have given them to my partner who can enjoy them.

As it says above, the most important thing to ensure when you get a leather jacket is to make sure it fits right. Not only in the chest measurement, but around the middle. Some jackets come with a belt around the bottom. I usually remove a belt, because it tends to get in the way and if the jacket fits right, it is not necessary.

My favorite jackets are:

My Taylor's Leatherwear Jacket, which is designed for cops. The jacket allows a lot of maneuverability (arm movement), has a lining that can be removed in warmer weather, and is exceptionally durable.

Another favorite is my "Motocross" Jacket that was made by Mr. S of San Francisco. It fits very well, is warm and durable, and has a quilted lining sewn into it (not removable).

If you are looking for a jacket to wear to a leather bar, you should not wear an expensive, custom-tailored jacket. It could be stolen if you take it off (even if a coat check is offered.) I have a "bikers jacket" with a bunch of gaudy studs but still made of top-grain leather. I have had it for a long time. It still fits and has no patches on it. I wear it on the rare occasions I go to a leather bar when it's cold. Because of the gaudy studs, nobody would want to steal it, yet it's different enough that it's easy to recognize in a pile of gear when it's time to leave.

Beware of cheap jackets offered by websites that cater to straight bikers. Those jackets are usually made from cowhide splits, not top grain leather, and the leather usually comes from a country where the quality is poor. You will wear a jacket for a long time: get quality. It doesn't have to cost a fortune, but should be made well, fit well, and look good on you.

The next musing will be about the very popular and often sought "Muir Cap", exceptionally popular with Leathermen.

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