As readers of this blog know, I am a biker -- I ride a Harley-Davidson motorcycle. I've been riding for some 30 years.
I also enjoy wearing leather. The motorcycle was the inspiration for getting a lot of my gear, and as I have aged and settled down, most of my leather these days is worn for protection and style while riding, not for fetish interests.
I have received inquiries about my recommendations about various items of leather gear for bikers. I decided to take my "Guide to (fetish) Leather Gear" and create one specifically for (straight) bikers. I left the fetish stuff out and wrote more about the design and function of leather that bikers may choose to buy and wear.
The full Guide to Biker Leather Gear is here.
I cover topics including:
Someone from Vermont, USA, searched, "What to wear when riding a Harley" and landed on this blog, but in a post that did not answer that question. This post will.
I ride a Harley, and I ride with other Harley riders and observe what they wear, too. So let me give you some suggestions from the point of view of a regular Harley rider who appreciates clothing that gives him freedom of movement as well as provides comfort and protection when he rides.
Name: [Pakistani Peddler]
Location: Sialkot, Pakistan
Dear Sir/Madam,
We would like to introduce you to our company. We are one great company with very good reputation in Pakistan and in the international market. This is due to our excellent quality products and economical rates. Our main object is to provide excellent quality products at reasonable prices every time when we deal our customers.
We are presently manufacturing all kinds of leather Jackets, Motorbike suits, Cordura jackets, Trousers, Gloves, Saddle bags and Vests. The Company has highly qualified staff at its back having vast experience in the manufacturing process and is maintaining quality tools to the International standards and specifications. Our main objectives are customer confidence, satisfaction, and to provide....
[cutoff as the message hit my max 1000 character limit]
Oh my goodness, this barrage from desperate Pakistani leather vendors continues.
A while back, someone wrote to me to ask my advice on how to remove a strong smell of fragrance from a pair of boots she bought via eBay. Another guy wrote recently with a similar question -- how to remove smoke odor from a leather jacket previously worn by a heavy smoker.
There are a lot of home remedies and folklore out there. In my opinion and based on experience, most of the home remedies do not work. Here is what works, and why....
I was sent an email a while back stating, "I would like to find a good leather jacket. DO NOT want some every day model like you see every other middle-aged corn-fed golf dolt wearing. You know the type I mean. YAWN. I want something a bit more badass than that, but don't want something way out there. You know, too much. Too buckly, zippery. Something in the middle. Any suggestions of what to look for?"
My reply?
They always say to look for sales in the off-season. Such advice led me to find a sale on a pair of perforated leather jeans that go well with a perforated leather shirt (photo left) that I bought via eBay from NCBootdude in early 2011. I bought a pair of perforated leather jeans from CJ's Leather in Denver, Colorado in September and received them, custom tailored to my size, in October.
What is perforated leather?
While it may take me longer to think about what I might put into a video on "buying leather on a budget," let me address the question in a blog post. I'll get around to doing a video sometime later.
First very important point: do not buy cheap leather from on-line retailers that sell gear made in Pakistan or China. You'll be very disappointed. The leather is all shiny and smells great when you get it, but soon enough, the garment starts to fall apart at the seams. The leather discolors. Hardware rusts. Leather stretches. Blemishes become obvious. So by all means, before you buy leather (especially from on-line vendors), ask about the origin of the leather and where the product is made. If the leather is from Pakistan or China, then forget about it.
The good stuff uses leather made in the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Spain, Italy, Germany, Mexico, or South America (to name most, but not all countries that produce quality leather).
You can usually tell quality leather origin in two ways: vendors of the good stuff will tell you on their website and on a label in the garment what the source of the leather was. You can also make a good guess by the price. If a price seems too good to be true, such as a pair of chaps or leather jeans for about US$100, then run! Something's wrong -- usually with the leather, but also with the construction.
Usually, leather garments sized in off-the-shelf sizes will fit "okay" but usually will hang funny on regular people who are not built like buff models used in photos on websites. The gear may sag or pucker in the wrong places -- such as off-the-shelf chaps may pucker around the crotch. The gear may be cut to fit men of different heights, and close with snaps along the bottom (many off-the-shelf chaps come that way.) The trouble is, chaps that are not hemmed, but rather are cut, eventually fray at the bottom and don't look right. Or the snap closures are bulky and they eventually oxidize, too, so they will not close correctly in a year or two.
The difference in cost between quality off-the-shelf, sized-for-the-masses leather and custom leather gear really isn't that much. But the fit is astronomically different. A good pair of quality chaps from any of the vendors listed on my website links page can make you great stuff for market prices. Yes, some of those market prices may seem very high. Shop around. Wait for sales. Usually leather vendors offer sales in advance of the holidays.
Oh, one other thing: don't buy a license. Huh? What I mean is, don't buy leather that has a Harley-Davidson logo on it and think you have a high-quality product because you were charged an arm and a leg for it. Check the label in the garment -- you may see a label indicating country of origin as being China, Indonesia, or Pakistan. You see, when a company that has a well-recognized brand name allows its name to be used in a line of related products (such as H-D branded leathers), the Motor Company is licensing the use of its name for that purpose. So what you're doing is buying a license rather than getting even better quality gear for the price. That's why you see me -- a Harley-riding guy -- with "non-label" gear and no H-D brand on it. I have the brand on my bike, and that's where it should be. Not on my lapel.
Back to the subject -- interested in leather gear on a budget? Save your money. Shop around. Use the vendors listed on the links page on my website. Wait for sales.
It is better to wait and buy the good stuff than go for the cheap and have it fall apart soon and look like a sack of potatoes when wearing it.
I wish I could offer some better news on how to buy leather, but the moral of the story is to buy the good stuff, and wait if you have to so you can afford to get quality gear that will last a long time.
Life is short: wear quality gear!
Gray leather, not black??? Am I committing sacrilege to the Biker Lords who establish norms for biker leathers?
While I'm sure that some guys wouldn't find this color of leather all that interesting, and even some may say that it is over-the-top -- to me, as a secure, leather-oriented biker, it's perfect! Stand out from the crowd of boring black leather-clad bikers in ill-fitting gear. I've long been all about being my own guy, and this is a way I can express my independence and freedom from the shackles of conformity.
Here's the story on the gear: in late March, while on a business trip to San Francisco, my friend Mike of Stompers Boots took me to Johnson Leather where I discussed my interests and specifications, and my measurements were taken for a cop-style leather jacket and a pair of leather riding pants to match.
In May, I received a canvas mock-up of the jacket and pants. Johnson Leather asked me to have pictures taken of me wearing the mock-up, both in a standing and sitting-on-my-Harley position. I sent the pictures to them, and they used what they saw to make adjustments to the fitting before cutting the leather to make the garments.
In late June, I received my new custom gray leather jacket and matching custom pants.
Wow! This outfit fits perfectly and is (to me) really cool-looking! The leather from which it is made is thick -- I estimate 7-8 oz. thickness, so the gear provides both warmth as well as protection.
The jacket is cut in a traditional biker/motorcycle cop style. It has three zipped outer pockets and one deep inner pocket. It is lined with silk. The jacket is cut to allow freedom of movement, required when I wear it while riding my Harley.
A particular custom-specified feature with which I am especially pleased is an added leather back panel made for the jacket. Here's the reason why I had that done: I ride with a motorcycle club, and while I would like to have the club's patches (colors) added to the jacket to wear when I ride with them, I didn't want to damage the jacket with permanent additions. Who knows? I may have to change patches for some reason in the future, or I may want to wear the jacket to locations where wearing club colors isn't something I would want to do, or the club wouldn't want the colors shown. (That club would get upset if I wore its colors into a gay venue, because the club's national leadership is homophobic.)
The pants are made with lots of room in the seat and thigh, so my hips and legs move freely as I swing my leg over the saddle of my Harley or require maneuverability when I walk the bike into a tight parking spot. The pants have a zip fly which is much better when leathers will actually be worn while riding a motorcycle. The room around the hips and crotch provide for maneuverability, too -- unlike some leathers made for fetish-wear.
The only down-side, if there is a down-side, is that these new leathers are designed for warmth, so I cannot test them out on a ride on my Harley until our local temperatures cool off significantly.
Life is short: know what you want, how to specify it, and be your own man by choosing to wear leathers in colors other than black!
Once again, here are links to more photos of the custom gray leather jacket and matching custom pants.
I digress: due to this spell of terrific Spring weather, it's been "chaps weather" in the mornings. It's too cool not to have something over the pants that I wear to my office for my early-morning commute. I have several pairs of motorcycle riding chaps, made custom to my measurements. Plus, I don't like cheap chaps that zip to just below the knee then have snaps to the bottom. They look crappy -- and cheap. Nope, my chaps have zippers on the outsize and go all the way down the leg to the bottom of the boot.
Why outside-zip chaps? First of all, outside zips are easier to reach. But the primary reason for zippers on the outside is that leather, not a metal zipper, may rub against the sides of the gas tank. Leather won't scratch the paint on a gas tank as metal zippers would do. It is fairly easy to tell if a guy wearing chaps actually rides a motorcycle or is a wannabe by the quality of the chaps he's wearing and the location of the leg zippers.
And honestly, I wonder, "is it only gay bikers who know about outside-zip custom leather chaps?" I see so many straight bikers who wear those cheap inside-zip chaps. Such a shame... if they only knew about custom outside-zip chaps: they also would avoid scratching the paint on their motorcycles' gas tanks and present an appearance as if they cared about how their gear fit and looked.
In another digression, I have to be honest, the TourPak (like a trunk) on the back of my Harley spoils me. When I arrive at the parking garage near my office, I can store my helmet, chaps, jacket, and gloves in it, lock it up, and not have to drag that stuff into the office and back out again. When it is time to ride home, it has been warm enough that I have only needed a light jacket. I can carry the lighter jacket in the TourPak while riding into work, and then wear it while riding home, storing the heavier jacket that I wore in the morning back there. Very convenient, and spoiling. Sure beats dragging small duffel bags with gear in it into the office and strapping them with bungie cords onto the bike. I like this bike -- I think I'll keep it :-)
Okay, dudes, it's Leather Weather!
Life is short: Leather up and ride!
There are three types of leather vests. One of them I will not discuss here, as I don't own any: that is, a dress vest worn with a three-piece suit. Most of those types of vests are made of cloth, anyway.
I will go into some detail about the two remaining styles of leather vests: 1) a bar vest, and 2) a biker vest. Each of these vests can have "colors" applied to them. And by that I mean patches, not dye. Any time patches representing membership or affiliation with a club, motorcycle riding chapter, or similar organization are applied (with glue and/or sewn on) to the back and/or front of a vest -- that's what's called "club colors." The vest is worn to illustrate affiliation with the group.
A "bar vest" gets its name because it is usually worn by guys who go to bars -- that simple. It is usually rather plain and made of 2-3oz leather (rather thin.) Most bar vests do not have outside pockets, but may have a pocket on the inside flaps.
The front and back panels of a bar vest may be sewn together at a seam, or have adjustable lacing, or be connected with chains. It varies, and the choices are more stylistic preferences of the man wearing it than anything else. For example, just because a guy is wearing a vest that has front and back panels connected with silver chains doesn't mean he wants to pick a fight. (This symbolism continues today from images held over from old "biker movies").
Personally, I recommend getting a bar vest that has a way to adjust the fit at the side seams. Laces allow a little more room to be provided perhaps around the tummy area, get be tighter up closer to the arm pits. Chains allow that type of fit to occur naturally, where the chain may be extended at the bottom but hang in a loose u-shape at the top.
Bar vests do not have closures like snaps or buttons on the front. These vests are designed to hang open, revealing the chest. They look great on men who are in good physical shape. Bearish figures look, well -- "bearish" -- if a bar vest is worn alone. Often bar vests on bearish bodies hang funny and reveal a lot of the tummy, drawing attention to physical attributes that some guys would rather not have so accentuated.
Bar vests are often worn alone, but may also be worn over a t-shirt or a leather shirt. However, real bikers do not wear bar vests while operating a motorcycle, or risk being flogged by flapping leather.
Biker vests are usually made of thicker leather -- 4-5oz is common, 6-7oz is better. That's because most bikers actually use these vests as protective wear while operating a motorcycle. Thicker leather will resist rocks or other debris that may be kicked up by a tire of a vehicle in front of you. Think of it, in a way, as added "body armor."
Biker vests also usually have rather thick seams across the back yoke -- though it is possible (and preferable) to get a "plain back" biker vest if you wish to have patches (colors) applied. Often the patches on the back are large and cover a big area, and a large seam makes it difficult to apply a patch smoothly over the back. (the patches had to be blurred due to homophobia from the license holder of the patches.)
Biker vests also usually have pockets. Bikers like pockets. Outside pockets are great for keys, ride route maps, coins or bills for toll payments, and other light stuff that need to be reached quickly. Inside pockets -- particularly deeper "gun pockets" -- are terrific to hold a wallet, cell phone, and other bulkier items. Some vests have snap or zipper closures for inside pockets, which are a great feature to help hold valuables securely.
Biker vests also have various ways to deal with side seams like bar vests: some have lace fittings, which make it easy to adjust the fit to the body of the man wearing it. Some have chains, which work the same way that they do on bar vests, described above.
Finally, a major difference between a bar vest and biker vest is that biker vests have front closures. Some have buttons (bad, because buttons often get strained and pop off), or zippers (not so good, because a zip-closed vest restricts movement), or snaps. Most bikers choose vests with snaps on the front. He can snap the top two or three snaps to keep the vest from flying open in the wind while riding. However, closing a vest can restrict freedom of movement, particularly if the vest is tight on the body when closed.
To deal with that, many bikers choose vest extenders, which are usually 2" to 3" chains or leather straps that connect to the vest's snaps on each side. A vest extender on the middle snap(s) may draw across tightly, while a vest extender on the top and bottom snaps may hang in a loose u-shape. That's common, and actually preferable because as a biker moves his arms while operating a motorcycle, the vest will allow movement since it's not physically drawn tight across the chest.
Vest extenders are easy to find at most motorcycle shops, leather stores, and on-line -- even at places where you might not think of looking, such as auto parts dealers. They are inexpensive -- usually US$2 - $6 for a set of two.
I have a variety of vest extenders. Some are chains. Some are plain leather. Some are made of leather and have a decoration, such as a Maltese Cross on the front.
By the way, I learned a lesson once. I was riding with a biker vest held closed in the front with vest extenders when I got caught in the rain. When the vest dried, the snap closures rusted. I was able to clean up the rust, but the snaps didn't work well again. They became more loose and the vest extenders disconnected when I was riding my Harley. Thus, the lesson I learned is not to get the vest wet. If a rainstorm catches me by surprise again, I take the vest off and put on rain gear that I keep in my saddlebag.
I also want to point out that not all vests are cut to the same pattern. Some fit well and others do not -- they "hang funny," pucker at the shoulders, do not reach the waist, or have too much leather in front and not enough in back. It is important to try a vest on -- try on several of them, actually. Some will fit better than others. If you're buying on-line, then check the return and exchange policy of the vendor before shelling out the money to buy it. If it doesn't fit or looks bad on you, you will need to be able to exchange it or return it.
Further: caveat emptor! Inexpensive leather vests are cheap for a reason. Often they are made from inferior hides and are not assembled well. I cannot recommend vests made in Pakistan. Every vest I have seen that is made in that country is cheap and of inferior quality. So watch what you may consider buying from the cheap on-line biker leather vendors. Other vendors like Biker's Den and Johnson's Leather for biker vests and Mr. S or 665 Leather for bar vests -- all have very good stuff made in the USA. (A few examples; there are many more).
I hope you find this information helpful as you consider your next purchase of a leather vest.
Life is short: wear leather!
Man, these guys won't give up! They barrage me with email begging me to buy their stuff, or serve as a U.S. reseller for their junk. Another one has been creative, and has attempted to leave comments on this blog that has an embedded link back to a company's website -- the company being a cheap leather vendor in Pakistan.
I do not recommend cheap leather goods from Pakistan because the quality is poor, the leather is blemished, and the construction is bad. At least that has been my observation for any leather gear I have seen from there. That's why I don't recommend leather vendors like leatherup.com and jammin leather, whose products (most of them, anyway) originate from there.
If you want the good stuff, invest in quality gear from reputable vendors in the U.S., Canada, and Germany, for example.
'nuf said... I have much to catch up on upon my return from business travel.
Life is short: don't bother with cheap leather goods from Pakistan.
Someone from Russia sent me an email recently telling me that he had decided to purchase a pair of leather jeans from Northbound Leather of Toronto, Ontario, Canada after reading this blog and how I have complimented the store's quality and service. However, he was confused by the sizing chart on Northbound's website.
Here are my thoughts about how to determine if you should order a stock size of a pair of leather jeans or breeches, or order them custom -- and how to determine the proper sizing. (Note, I refer to U.S. measurements. Use a conversion chart if you do not use U.S. measurements in archaic inches.)
1. Well-constructed garments made of high-quality leather do not stretch at the waist very much, such as a pair of cloth jeans. The leather used for the waist, as well as double-stitching with thick thread, makes the waistband much less "stretchable" than other parts of a leather garment, such as the seat and thighs. So if you are torn between two stock sizes, such as 34" and 36", go with the larger size.
2. The older you get, the easier it is to put on weight in the middle. If you get leather pants that fit tightly now, you may not be able to fit into them in a few years. It is easier to reduce the size of the waist by using a belt (or by having the pants altered professionally) but you cannot add more to the size if it is not there in the first place. Again: go with a larger size if you're choosing between two sizes.
3. My experience with custom-made leather garments from Northbound has been that their products are a bit more tight than leather garments I have had custom-made from U.S. vendors such as Mr. S or 665 Leather. I have kidded Northbound about Canadians measuring things differently. (Only a joke!)
4. Do NOT use the measurements from a regular pair of blue jeans! Sizes and people change. In fact, Consumer Reports did some testing last year and indicated that men's jean sizes can vary as much as two inches in the waist. You cannot use a pair of jeans that fit you to determine the proper size of a pair of leather pants.
How do you determine if you can purchase at stock sizes or require custom work? It is simple: have your measurements taken, and determine if your measurements at critical areas (waist and inseam) are the same as the measurements to which stock garments are made. If the measurements are the same, then buy pre-made, stock jeans or breeches. If not, then you will have to buy custom.
5. Even if you can wear stock sizes, I still think the best way to go is to have leather breeches or jeans made custom to your measurements. That way, you know that you will have garments that will fit you perfectly. I have said this before, such as in my "Complete Guide to Leather Gear," but I should emphasize once again: do NOT measure yourself! Have a friend use a tailor's tape to measure you. Use the form in my Leather Gear Guide to note your specific measurements. Not only is it impossible to get accurate measurements yourself, you have to realize that you're human, and may not want to accept the results that the tape shows. You may pull the tape a bit tighter on your waist to get the results you want -- and then end up ordering a pair of leather jeans that are too small and will not stretch to accommodate you. Believe me, quality leather garment vendors like Northbound want to get it right the first time, and they've seen it all. They don't care if your jeans are a size 36, but the tape shows a waist size of 39. They will make what fits you best, so get the measurements done correctly with a friend's help.
Well-fitting leather jeans will last a long time. I have worn leather jeans and breeches regularly for decades. I admit, though, that leather jeans that I bought in the 1980s would not fit me today, 30+ years later. Those garments are gone. But once I got past age 40 or so, where my "middle-age spread" settled, I ordered some leather garments that still fit me well today -- and I wear them often. (Though I must admit, I appreciate that with a recent 40-pound weight-loss, I have lost three inches at the waist, so now I have to wear a tighter belt than before -- and, I don't feel squeezed such that my gut rises up above the waist of the pants and hangs out prominently.)
In summary, my recommendation is to consider your age and lifestyle, as well as how often you plan to wear the leather. If you are like me and want to get a good return on your investment by wearing leather regularly -- not just to a once-a-year fashion show & gathering of the leather clan -- then choose to have custom gear made to your actual measurements. If, however, you may wear the leather jeans less often, then go with stock sizes, but if you have to make a choice between two sizes, go with the larger of the two.
Gear in the photos:
1) Leather shirt and breeches with LAPD markings from 665 Leather of West Hollywood, California, USA.
2) "Sailor Leather" pants from Northbound Leather of Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
3) Hunter green leather shirt from Mr. S. of San Francisco, California, USA. (Pants are the "sailor leather" shown in #2)
4) Blue-striped leather jeans from Northbound.
Life is short: wear leather!
Black leather is quite common, as it is easiest for leather crafters to dye and work with. But it is possible, and much easier now to find, leather that is dyed in other colors. Natural leather is light brown, so whatever finished products made from leather -- jacket, pants, shirt, etc. -- are dyed anyway.
It used to be that finding quality leather in an alternate color than black was hard to do, especially finding leather that is drum-dyed. That is, the dye saturates the entire hide, so over time as blemishes or scars occur during wear, the color remains the same.
The image of the black-clad leathered biker or the Gay Leatherman is a relic of the past, but remains omnipresent today. Yeah, I have a LOT of black leather. But I also have blue, grey, brown, and dark blue leather garments, too. I even have one pair of cheap leather breeches dyed in "Silvertan" with blue and gold braiding (stripes) -- like a CHP uniform.
I once tried on a red leather shirt, but it looked awful on me. Some young, lithe, trim guys can pull that off. Not me.
Anyway, leather does not "have" to be black. It can be any color of the rainbow. A good leathercrafter such as 665 Leather, Mr. S Leather, Northbound Leather have hides (or can get them) in various colors. You can specify a garment you want, such as breeches, shirts, jackets, pants, or even ties, to custom-fit you and be in the color you want. Mixing up the colors of a shirt, jacket, and pants makes things interesting, and gets more useful life from leatherwear.
Life is short: avoid being so monochromatic!
I saw an entry into Google that got directed to my website. It was, "Gay Leather Breeches."
Sheesh... here we go again.... Breeches as worn by motor officers, for example, aren't gay. Men who wear them may be gay or not. There are large number of cops who wear breeches every day, and the majority of them are not gay.
But I know that there are a lot of gay dudes who like to wear leather, and look for breeches to complete the full "BLUF" uniform (BLUF means "breeches and leather uniform fanclub"). So yeah, there are gay men who wear leather breeches, as shown here. But the breeches themselves aren't gay.
What's the difference between a pair of breeches and a pair of pants? Breeches are usually form-fitting to the person wearing them. They may have "balloons" which were built into riding breeches to give the rider (of a horse) ample maneuverability as he rode his horse. These days, most breeches do not have balloons. However, they will be form-fitted at the ankle, designed to taper close to the leg and close with snaps or (better yet) a zipper. That way, tall boots will fit over them well and the leather won't bind or bunch up around the knee.
If you're looking for a pair of leather breeches to wear as BLUF gear, consider a quality leather crafter as I mentioned yesterday, such as 665 Leather, Mr. S Leather, or Northbound Leather.
Leather breeches are comfortable and when fitted well (as in custom), they allow movement while operating a motorcycle, and look great when fitted with a tall pair of patrol boots.
Life is short: wear leather!
Visit that post or check out the complete instructions on how to assemble a uniform on my website if you want to know how to assemble a cop costume for Halloween. I also address the issue about whether it is legal to do so, but I'll repeat that info here for convenience.
Yes... it is legal to assemble and wear a cop uniform (if you're not a cop) with some provisos:
1. Don't wear the uniform representing an agency that has jurisdiction where you are. For example, if you want to wear a California Highway Patrol (CHP) motor officer uniform, don't wear it in the State of California. That's illegal as noted in California state law. I live in a county in Maryland. I wouldn't wear a uniform that looks like the same uniform my county officers wear. Even if I don't wear the insignia of my local police department -- it's "too close for comfort" and technically, while it's not illegal to wear a uniform of the same color and appearance as a local PD as long as it doesn't have that PD's insignia on it, the "second rule" of making a choice to wear a uniform comes into play.
2. That "second rule" is a question: "could a real cop think I am trying to impersonate an officer?" Impersonation of an officer is a civil crime, punishable by fines and/or a jail sentence.
You can wear a replica police officer uniform as a costume. Just don't go around acting like a cop. Impersonation is measured both by what you're wearing, but also by what you do -- how you act and behave. Don't try to pull someone over, write a citation (a ticket), handcuff someone in public, or do other things that you see actors-as-cops on TV do.
If you keep the uniform appearance to look like a uniform that is not worn by real cops in your area (town, city, county, or state), and if you keep the cop-acting behavior behind closed doors, then you'll be okay -- and probably have a lot of fun, too!
Straight guys as well as gay guys like to wear a uniform -- and Halloween is a fun "excuse" to wear one. Just be cool, and think before you act. It's dumb actions that get you in trouble. Don't be stupid -- like wear a uniform that has the same insignia of your local or state cops, or carry a gun, billy club, baton, or other weapon, and don't say foolish things (like you might hear on some TV shows) and you'll be fine.
Life is short: have fun, but be safe, sane, and sensible.
DISCLAIMER: All the information and photos contained in this post are provided solely for the benefit of those who wish to assemble and wear a replica cop costume. In no way is it intended for use in any attempt to impersonate any law enforcement officer.
I really like my new Retro Biker Chaps that I received recently, which were custom-made by 665 Leather of West Hollywood, California, USA.
The chaps came with four types of closures: a belt with a "665" buckle, a belt with a traditional D-ring buckle, a plain black band, and four snap-on D-rings that are closed with a long leather lace. Each of these closures snap onto the inside of each side of the upper part of the chaps at the waist onto two small snaps.
I guess that type of variable closure system is great for guys who wear the chaps to pose in. However, if you will wear them which actually riding a motorcycle, then the snaps that hold the front closures on are poorly made. The closure unsnaps much too easily. Swing your leg over the saddle of the bike, and you hear, "click," which is a snap unsnapping. Walk 20 paces and hear "click" again. Sit down or stand up... "click" ... "click". Before you know it, the front closure has come undone and the chaps open up/fall down.
I thought of returning the chaps to request better quality snaps. However, it took so long to get them in the first place, I was worried that it would take months again to get them fixed right. I thought of taking them to my favorite leather repair guy to request better snaps, but re-thought the whole matter.
How will I wear these chaps? With a belt. Will I wear any other of the closure options? No, not really. So I fixed the problem myself.
I permanently attached the belt closure ends onto each side of the front of the chaps with rivets. Yes: plain, ordinary, rivets. They work great. I rode my Harley with the chaps on and closed with the riveted belt, and they felt fine. Better yet, they didn't open as I swung my leg over the saddle, while I was riding, or when I dismounted.
Life is short: make adjustments that work for you and your style.
My fellow blogger, Straight Jacketed, amused me yesterday when he closed a post on his blog with a line, "To adapt a catchphrase from the indefatigable BHD, life is short: wear whatever you damn well like."
You know, he's right. He's damn well right. The other day when I went with my partner to a trolley museum, I knew that it was likely that I would see neighbors and even some local elected leaders there. Regardless, I chose to wear a pair of comfortable lightweight leather jeans and my Wesco combat boots with the jeans bloused into them. (That is, the ends of the leather jeans tucked a little bit into the top of the boots, and then the remaining leather bloused over them so they have a sharp appearance.)
For me, it was comfortable. I also like the masculine appearance of the boots and leather. Funny, I noticed when I processed the picture for this blog that I have grass stains on the boots. Yep, I have been mowing the lawn while wearing them, and it shows. At the stage of recovery from my broken leg, the lace-up, taller combat style boots give the support I require, as well as are comfortable for all-day wear.
One of the museum visitors looked at me and said, "you look like a 'storm trooper'." Ha! I got a big laugh out of that. The other people I knew, including community leaders, didn't bat an eye. They talked to me, looked at my face, and not at what I was wearing.
I am comfortable in my own skin, and comfortable in a cow's skin, too. Nobody cares what I have on my feet or legs. Seriously. For those who obsess about what other people think about what you're wearing: forget it. N-o o-n-e c-a-r-e-s!
Life is short: wear whatever you damn well please.
P.S.: I am highly honoured to be labeled "indefatigable." Thanks, man. I get fatigued. I just hide it well (giggle.)
I received a comment on a blog post the other day from the guy who owns Eastern Oregon Leather and who made those really cool wrist cuffs for me and my partner.
He said: "the pair of [leather] jeans I got is turning out to be really cheap. They are off the shelf from the net and the seat is already stretching out. They fit fine the first time I wore them but now it looks like I have a load of crap in my seat .. Lol! Live and learn. I am now looking for a custom shop to get a good pair."
I also received an email from a guy in Germany who said: "Your leather gear looks great on you. You said that some of your gear is more than 20 years old, yet it looks new. It isn't like the gear I ordered by the internet. Where did you get it?"
I learned the hard way about buying leather gear and perhaps I can share some information with guys who are interested in getting a pair of leather jeans, chaps, or even a leather shirt so the gear will fit them well and remain good-looking as it is worn for years to come.
Here is what I have learned:- Leather gear designed for the masses, such as sold on some straight biker-oriented websites (leatherup.com and Jamin' Leather are prime examples), looks good on guys who model it for photos on their website, and appears good the first time you open the box. But as Shane said, when you wear it a few times, it begins to stretch, sag, and get baggy in the wrong places. If you want to continue to wear it, you will have to have it professionally altered, often at a cost that is more than what you paid for it originally (unless you have the skills and equipment to do alterations yourself.)
- There is a reason why leather gear that has prices significantly lower than gear sold by leather-oriented retailers is cheap: the quality of the hides is usually poor. It is probably made of splits, not top grain leather, but is polished, buffed, and the leather is stamped to appear as if it is top grain. But it doesn't behave as top-grain leather when you wear it. It usually squeaks, stretches, and can tear easily. It may discolor when exposed to water, rain, or heat from a motorcycle engine. The chemicals used to make it shiny wear off quickly, and then it looks dull, or develops discoloured patches ranging from gray to black. Sometimes it can look like it has "leather pox." (Not a real disease, but you get the point.)
- Construction of a leather garment is important! Cheap gear shows short-cuts in manufacture -- anything from single-stitched seams to x-pattern stitches where rivets would work better (corners, pockets -- like on Levis) or a shortage of pockets to (my pet peeve) cheap snaps in the fly so when you swing your leg over the saddle of a motorcycle, your fly pops open.
- Sizes S-M-L-XL are attempts to fit everyone, and usually don't (fit everyone).
- "Cut-to-length" jeans or chaps are a sign of cheaply made-for-the-masses gear. Leather jeans or chaps should be hemmed, not cut, to the right length. Hemming requires the use of a sewing machine and needle strong enough to work on leather. If you simply cut off the bottom of a pair of jeans to fit the length of your legs, then the ends of the legs will fray and the seams will come loose.
- Be very careful about using eBay, Craigslist, or other on-line auction sites. Remember: used gear fits someone else. No two people are exactly the same. The previous owner may have caused the leather to stretch in the seat or knees. If you wear size 34 denim jeans and see a size 34 pair of leather jeans, it is NOT likely the fit will be the same. You may end up with something that doesn't fit you, and that you cannot return. Don't use on-line auction sites to buy leather unless you really know what you're doing and have experience with choosing gear that will fit you.
Good quality leather gear will outlive the person wearing it if you care for it by conditioning it from time to time and hanging it up when you are not wearing it. Leather is a long-term investment. As such, here are my tips for shopping for leather gear:- Make a decision on how often you will wear the garment. If you will wear it more than once-a-year to a leather fashion show or gathering of The Great Leather Clan, then get quality, custom-made gear. It will fit you better, look better, and be made better. If, however, you are unwilling to wear leather pants, chaps, or a shirt more than once or twice a year, then you probably can get by with the cheap stuff, as a long-term investment isn't worth it.
- Don't be intimidated or afraid of shopping at a leather-oriented retailer like 665 Leather, Mr. S., Northbound, or equivalent. While these retailers may have images on their website that may be frightening or cause eyebrows to raise among the straight guys, these businesses are in business for a reason: they craft quality leather garments and they know what they're doing. They have measured and made leather gear for all sorts of people -- big, small, tall, short, black, white, Asian, male, female, transgendered, and people with physical disabilities. They don't care what you look like; they're not looking for the next sexy model for their website. They want you to be happy with quality gear that you will wear. (Which brings me back to point 1: get over your own hang-ups about wearing leather.)
- Use the retailers website to gather information and to determine what turns your crank, but especially for the first few forays into purchase of leather gear: visit the store in person or call them on the phone. Don't order based on an image and fill-in-boxes on a website alone! When you visit or call a leather retailer, they can discuss with you many options that may not appear on their website. Options may include:
- different colour of leather other than black.
- a zip fly instead of snaps.
- a zipper all the way around from front to back.
- measurements they need so they can create gear thats fits all parts of your body: ankles, calf, lower leg, upper leg, thigh, hips, butt, waist, abdomen, tummy, chest, arms, neck.
- hidden zipper front closure of a leather shirt (very functional!)
- number, size, and placement of pockets.
- piping (colored strips that define pockets and seams).
- striping down the outside of each leg.
- color combinations, such as for pocket flaps, epaulettes, or yoke.
- Closure for chaps, such as a belt or snaps.
- Bottom leg closure, such as zippers to make a tapered end so the leather will fit into tall boots smoothly.
- Lots of other stuff, too. The point is, unless you actually speak with someone who is making leather gear for you, then you may miss out on getting options for leather gear that makes it "uniquely YOU!"
Custom gear made to your specific measurements may cost two to four times as much as off-the-'net stuff will cost, BUT buying one item that you will wear for years is a better investment than two or three items that may quickly stretch, bulge, discolor, or rip and that you will not be able or interested in wearing for more than a few times, or that you would need to have repaired or altered by a professional.
When I consider buying leather jeans, chaps or shirts, I consider these retailers:
665 Leather of North Hollywood, California.
Mr. S Leather of San Francisco, California.
Northbound Leather of Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
I have purchased many leather items from these retailers, and have been very pleased with the quality of the garments and their construction. The choices of leather they use is superb. Craftsmanship is excellent. Customer service is also very good.
In summary, when it comes to buying new leather jeans, chaps, shirts, jackets, vests, or the like, you get what you pay for. Buy cheap, get cheap. Make an investment in the good stuff, and it will last a lifetime. You will enjoy wearing it, and perhaps become like me: wear it often, with pride.
For more information, read my Complete Guide to Leather Gear. I hope it helps you make wise decisions for long-term investments in quality and gear you will enjoy for a long time.
Life is short: wear your leather!
This is a really cool, stylish, and exceptionally well-made wrist cuff that I just received. My partner also received one. When he's feeling better, we both will "model" our cuffs together.
The wrist cuff is made by Eastern Oregon Leather Factory. The guy who owns the business and makes this gear is obviously very talented.
I received an email from the company owner last week, asking for permission to reprint a portion of my Complete Guide to Leather Gear which appears on my website. I responded, giving my permission. Now part of my Guide appears on the Eastern Oregon Leather Factory's Website, here. I appreciate that he asked me, and honored my copyright. I am happy to share if I am asked. I commend the owner for doing the right thing and for his honesty.
Hey, leatherguys, or someone looking for something different, hand-made, and special. You should check out the products available from Eastern Oregon Leather Factory and get something. Great watchbands, cuffs, and bracelets, with more to come, I'm sure. The prices are very reasonable.
My partner and I are now the "best cuffed men" here in Maryland! (Smile -- go tell that to my bike cop tenant. He will have a big laugh out of that!)
Life is short: share your work and enjoy the recognition of being published!
